Text extracted from “Ricordi” of Julie AVIGNON-PASTINELLI (Balogna).
Our pastry makings often had as a base the “Brocciu” (word improperly translated by “bush”). The bruccio is a curd cooked and crémeux containing goat's milk. One curdles initially fresh milk, believed, with presses coming from a petrel of CABRI dried. When the believed curd is drained, which will constitute cheese, one carefully collects the small milk to which one adds fresh milk. The mixture is given to heat, with small fire, in a copper cauldron; it quickly takes the aspect of a cream which thickens little by little. Surface is foamed and when the cream is sufficiently thick, with a ladle out of wooden or iron, one deposits it in fish-plates out of snap ring braided “Caghjaghie” to make it drain. Whereas the believed curd has a tart taste, the brocciu is consistent and soft and constitutes a dessert of choice when it is simply powdered with sugar. The Corsica cake more appreciated is the “Fiadone” that one also calls “Imbrucciata”. Fiadoni were, at the same time as the “Caccavelli”, the cakes of Easter. For his preparation, one kneaded a firm paste with flour, eggs, water, sugar, and salt and, while the paste rested, one prepared the trimming: in a large salad bowl one finely crushed the fresh brocciu with the fork, one did not add to it badly sugar, a grated piece of lemon peel and eggs, but not too because this trimming was to be rather consistent, and not to run. One extended then the paste to the roller and, reversing a bowl on this undercrust, with a pointed knife, one cut out rounds of paste.
With the center of each disc, one laid out then a few spoonfuls of the preparation with the brocciu then, by raising the edges of the disc and by gripping them between the inch and the index, one formed small pies which one whitewashed with the egg yolk. The pies thus worked were to cook, without moulds, on dry sheets of chestnut, in the communal furnace, beside the “Caccavelli”. The latter were crowns of paste sweetened similar so that one calls (in Ariège) “hulls”, but made of a more consistent paste, of leaven, flour and eggs and scented with lemon and anise. On each “Caccavellu” one laid out a fresh egg in his shell which one fixed with a brace of paste. These crowns, prepared the day before, glazes of a fabric, raised gently. One carried them to the furnace only the following day and, before charging them, one gilded them with beaten egg.
Caccavelli furnished with eggs were specifically cakes of Easter but with a similar paste, one made, at the time of a festival, communion or marriage, pastry makings in the shape of small crowns, of eight, in the shape of rolls, called Canistrelle. Apart from the Easter, celebrates of Caccavelli and as Fiadoni, the fresh brocciu served to make other desserts, the “Turlette” for example (small tortas). They prepared a little like Fiadoni: a round of paste cut out with a bowl, a trimming of brocciu and eggs, sweetened and scented with lemon and, over another disc of paste whose circumference, moistened water, was carefully welded with the first. These slippers were not cooked with the furnace but simply fried in the frying pan, their taste recalled that of Fiadoni. Amongst other things one serves ate also crepes in Bruccio, the macaroons Corsican “Merzapanne, and the migliacci.
Lastly, with fresh brocciu or even slightly salted, one made also fritters with a raised paste of flour of corn or sweet chestnut flour.