I left the September 9 to 23,2006, only, to make the Northern GR20, i.e. 9 stages between Vizzavona and Calenzana. I had only 13 days of effective functioning, the complete GR. by counting 15, I considered to be wiser to limit the course rather than to double stages, considering it was my first experiment and that in more I was alone. I chose to travel light and I took the risk not to take of tent and to count on a place in each refuge, which I had. On the level food also, I took 4 freeze-dried if it was necessary, but I did not consume them and I took the menu in each refuge. I hoped to stop me with all the refuges and Castellu di Verghju, to allow me to climb Paglia Orba since the mini stage of Ciottulu di I Mori. The bad weather prevented me stopping me with this refuge and from climbing on the most beautiful node of Corsica.
Motivations:
Love of Corsica more than the taste of the functioning. Since I come to Corsica I intended to speak about the GR20 like mythical excursion. The realization was however inaccessible in my spirit for full with reasons. One chamboulement in my life and the fact that my father, deceased three years ago, planned to make some one day a part definitively decided to me to launch out. The fact of only finding me at the beginning of preparation will not have to finish be a brake.
Preparation:
I am a sportsman amateur and I thus have an acceptable physical condition. I had however decided to go to run once per week to improve my physical condition but I stopped at the beginning of July. I did not do anything of other and the physical condition was not a problem, with share for the first stage. On the level of the orientation, the GR. in its greater part very is very well marked out.
Transport:
Direct flights Bxl Bastia and Bastia Bxl with Jetonly for 248 including all taxes. The Corsica train, very sympathetic nerve, could not come me to assistance this time. On the spot I made all my displacements in stop and I did not have to regret it. The Corsicans are very sympas and the tourists on the spot are also ready to stop. More difficult obviously on the main road. I used the taxi to join Corte since the Collar of Verghju and the bus to join Bastia since Miomo (1,40 ) and to join the airport from Bastia (9 ).
Lodgings:
In Corte (3 nights), I placed with the hotel HR which proposes rooms with very reduced comfort starting from 25 per night. The refuges of the PNRC cost 9,5 per night, I placed with Onda, Petra Piana, Manganu, Tighjettu, Ascu Stagnu, Carrozzu and Ortu di U Piobbu. I always had place. I stopped at the ski resort of Castellu di Verghju rather than in Ciottulu di I Mori to have a hot shower with semi-course. The half pension (35 ) gives right a delicious meal, to electricity and a hot shower, like known as higher.
Prologue of a splendid adventure
The principal reason for which I launched out on this excursion, it is the interest and the passion which I dedicate to Corsica. Gradually, but since the first day when I put the feet at it, my interest for the landscapes, nature, the history, the culture, the gastronomy, the music or Corsica football did not cease growing. While discovering, while meeting, while returning, I formed my own opinion about the island and people who live it, far from the stereotypes conveyed by the French media. My GR20 thus fits in a logical continuation with my desire to discover Corsica always a little more authentic, always nearer to Fiuminale in February than of Oporto-Vecchio in August. By taking time to discover Corsica, like there are sometimes time to do it on the GR., one discovers it really differently. When one assied and that one keep silent oneself to listen to the wind with the breach of Capitellu or to listen to a guitar in a strange pizzeria in Bastia, one includes/understands Corsica differently. It is this Corsica there that I like, it is that which I saw on the GR20…
The Corsicans, them, are not animals louts and bourrus, which does not support the continental ones because they are not Corsican. They are not people who only live to suck the European Community and State grants. Even if nothing is white and nothing is black, it never should be forgotten that Corsica lived well and was an example of democracy under Paoli before French does not arrive. Information which arrives today (involuntarily I hope) is often truncated. The reasons of a rate of important unemployment on the island today are for example the result of several historical factors (displacement of the working population on the continent, sending massive of the working population Corsica with the war at the time of the century spent,…) and not always the result of an idleness wrongfully associated Corsica.
The debate is long and is not with the range of the poor chip small eater which I am but it east can be interesting, again, to sit down, and to listen to include/understand and form an opinion righter… TF1 does not hold the absolute truth.
Sunday September 10: Corte - Vizzavona - Onda.
The refuge of Onda is indicated in the guide as being smallest (12 places). It is thus important not to trail in path to arrive in the first. The delay of the day before is to be filled too. I am thus at the station, at the output of Corte, seven hours striking, the raised inch, while hoping to be as soon as possible at the beginning of the stage of the day. The first nobody who passes… is with foot! A hitch-hiker settles with hundred meters of me. The part is not announced easy but the chance smiles me: after fifteen minutes, it is the night watchman of my hotel which passes and takes to me until Venaco.
In precipitation, I forget my water bottle in his car! Small action, great consequences: I will face the hardest stage of the course without drinking water and consistent meal. Once more I think that the adventure starts, but this time I have opposite me the first red and white mark which shows to me the way of the “FRA Li monti”, the famous GR20 which makes me dream since such an amount of time. Not time to dream, it is late and the refuge of Onda is far. I feel the hand of dad in my back, Mimi, Laurent, Audrey and all those which will send messages to me during these two weeks go to my sides. My adventure does not start, it A started. And I feel it. With the menu of the first stage there is 1200m of made uneven to climb and thirst is not long in being announced. It is hard, very hard. I ended up drinking the water of the rivers and I attack my cereal bars. Bad point for the preparation. Fortunately, the spectacle that m offer the cascades of the English and Assembles it of Oru alleviates my difficulties. To two thirds of the rise, I make the meeting of the André family. We will walk together a few days and their meeting on this first stage will be a true safety. The last hundreds of meters to be climbed are infernal: more water (even more river), nothing notable in the stomach, three hours of intensive efforts in the legs and a stage of which I do not see the end! I thus encase the step in all humility but shameless in that of the André mom. I cannot about it any more, if it I stop stop. If it goes, I walk. I disconnected my brain and I do nothing but follow it… for finally arriving in top. Imposing spectacle. Everyone stops, takes again forces. I choose to continue to arrive before the few hikers who rest. The descent is less difficult but more technical, the risk of fall is permanent because the path is made small dusty stones. Two falls without consequences later… the refuge, with far.
Finally. I arrive in times, I have the 14th bed available on the 16 (refuge was increased this year) and I reserve in the tread the menu of the evening… At this time one evening particular starts: discovered Turkish john, first cold shower, first meetings, small first in refuge,… I will meet this evening there, the Family Andre (which I had just crossed during the day), two Belgians (father and wire) of Rixensart, idiots like the moon; a group of French hikers which randonnait in the other direction and which had met on the course… In fact, I had in front of me what I call today a first table of GR20. A situation which became a fixed image today. Environment at the time of this meal shared by tired but proud people, coming from different places, which do not know each other but which is avid knowledge what the other with lived during its day, is really particular. The refuges are also the occasion to see colourful people like this accomplished hiker who so much made me think of a character bronzed, who decided, without reason, to sleep outside, like that, to make the cow-boy. Tiring and strong in emotions, the day finishes after the piece of Corsica cheese which encloses the delicious menu (Corsican soup, lasagne and fruit) been useful by a couple of guards of refuge sympas and accessible!
Monday September 11: Onda - Petra Piana.
Second stage, second day of adventure! The night was short and difficult, I am not accustomed to any more sleeping out of bag of bed and an imbecile lit the light for all the dormitory towards five hour of the mat'! The time of all remballer, to admire to raise it day since the balcony of the refuge and to buy a bread with the guard not to know the same mishap that yesterday and I left through a superb forest pines in soft descent towards the refuge Petra Piana, that I will reach after four good hours of functioning and an hour of glands in the splendid cascades of Manganellu, after having passed the link and the sheep-fold of Tolla. The occasion to meet of old Gantese and very a sympathetic nerve couples Namurois young people at the edge of water. The GR. is attended by very many Belgians who all are not as idiots as those met yesterday. A first part of rather easy stage which will leave room to a new very painful rise (900m), cut by a pause meal with the sheep-folds of Ghjalgu, and a new revelation on the level of the preparation: all my hardware is not adapted. The poncho that I carried to protect myself from the rain is not used for nothing! The rain started to fall whereas I approached Petra Piana and last half an hour was done under a small rain worrying and slipping. The too small poncho, could not cover me when I carried the bag to back. It is thus to hope that the sky will retain its drops the 10 next days because I got rid of the useless object.
I am to finish arrived at the refuge without breakage and I discover a very sympathetic refuge, fact of several small country cottages and with a unspoilable view on the crossed valley. I find the André family (very sympathetic, they kept me a place) and the Belgians idiots. As the day before, I am caught Twix and a Coke with the supply, that will become a small rite until the end of the course. I order the menu and spends the time which separates me from the meal to reading the bought book with Zaventem (a collection of interview of Coluche). The meal does not hold the promises of that of the day before. A rather insipid cake follows a dish of paste to the pesto without more taste. The light which offers the day which starts to fall is very good, it is the occasion to make some photographs before going to sleep. The day of tomorrow again promises a beautiful stage, it will be acted to be as form!
Tuesday September 12: Petra Piana - Manganu.
Today, alarm clock and started fast. Manganu is not a refuge attended by the only trekkeurs of the GR20, but also a shelter for the hunters, the sinners and the hikers of any hair. To ensure me a place, I thus choose not to delay. Upon the departure a meeting sympathetic nerve: a salamander. Here thus the first unusual animal of my tour, which opens the way on a first painful rise, which gives access to me a remarkable point of view. Pauses, photo, bars cereal and it set out again… but not for a long time. I pay now the lapse of memory of the water bottle in the car! Without going into the details, my digestive system indicates to me that the water drunk in the river before day before was unsuitable with consumption. No the regrets, I could not make differently. Fortunately I am not reached too much and I carry on my road within a remarkable framework: a succession of lakes of mountain (of which Lakes Rinosu, Melu and Capitellu), peaceful but surrounded by a mysterious environment because of the many tales and legends which are referred to it… The course in peak is pleasant and clearly shown but the crossing of some fields of large blocks of rocks recalls to prudence. Whereas I approach the breach of Capitellu, true hinge of the stage of the day, I am caught up with by the André family, with which I will finish the stage. A stage which Corsican diablement a few hundred meters further during the rise itself of the breach, one does not speak here any more about functioning but rather about climbing by place. The use of the hands is essential but the spectacle is worth the sorrow of it: we eat at the top, with sun and a splendid
panorama, at the place even where the photograph was taken which makes the cover of the topoguide. After having eaten one or the other bars cereals, the descent is announced difficult because they are large blocks of rocks which should be descended and a fall can have really dramatic consequences. My knees make me strong evil for the first time, it is thus with relief that we arrive in bottom on the pozzines which border a small cascade. The river which runs will carry out us in a small hour to the refuge of Manganu but the rain who made his appearance does not make the bathe very attractive. Doubly damage because the river which runs very close to the refuge is very pretty but especially, the medical ones are absolutely pushing back! The greeting is not bad but it is non-existent, I nevertheless order the meal (sauce haricot beans) in spite of my intestinal problems which are not arranged at all (without more precise details). The refuge of Manganu will thus remain for the greeting, the meal and the conditions (drache with the Belgian) like less sympathetic nerve the more so as the network will prevent to me from sending my ms of the day. The frequentation of the refuge is not exceptional either,… highly tomorrow!
Wednesday September 13: Manganu - Castellu di Verghju.
The stage of the day will lead me to Castellu di Verghju. Stage O how much waited bus after a stage long in kilometers, but accessible in terms from made uneven and difficulty, I should find a hot shower, a bed, current, a true meal and can be what to even make the detergent. The stage suggested proposes to me to pass by the Lake Ninu, where I passed a few years ago. I thus leave only early and good mood, by greeting the André family last once bus them do not continue the GR. but fork towards Corte. After a few hundred meters of functioning hardly, the landscape opens and an immense plate appears. Cows and horses feed there in all peace, they must be among happiest of the world. A small rise leads to the sheep-folds of Vaccaghja and a true path until the end of the stage offers to me, while passing by the Lake Ninu, which I reach by bottom. I am living a great moment in my life and I feel it extremely. I like this excursion enormously and the fact of arriving at the accesses of this lake, which evokes for me memories not obvious to manage, gives me a feeling of force even more extremely. The lake did not change, always also beautiful and calms. A cow takes its bath and a foal takes care his/her mother, this lake is a true enchantment, I will return there certainly still a day. The excursion continues and passes with the collar San Petru and its trees laid down by the wind then the splendid forest of Valdu Niellu, which shelters some curious mushroom species. At the end of this very pleasant stage, I arrive (accompanied by wild pigs) at the ski resort, converted into lodging during the summer, of Verghju where I find all of which I dreamed in term of comfort (it is not either one four star but a hot shower that changes the life). Nap, idlenesses and detergent lead me to the delicious evening meal (raviolis to the brocciu and sauce meat). After the meal, great class: foot on TV! Lyon plays against Real and it will be the occasion for me to make knowledge with the server of the bar, fan of foot and Sporting, who obviously does not support French of Lyon but their adversaries. A sympathetic meeting (moreover) thus in spite of a Lyons victory. The night which advertisement should be very good in a true bed, before a stage buffer which must lead me to the gates of the circus of loneliness…
Large a thank you with Samuel for his participation.
I invite you to discover the continuation of the adventure on my site www.gr-20.be.
Greeting 
Hirings Corsican
The refuge of Onda is indicated in the guide as being smallest (12 places). It is thus important not to trail in path to arrive in the first. The delay of the day before is to be filled too. I am thus at the station, at the output of Corte, seven hours striking, the raised inch, while hoping to be as soon as possible at the beginning of the stage of the day. The first nobody who passes… is with foot! A hitch-hiker settles with hundred meters of me. The part is not announced easy but the chance smiles me: after fifteen minutes, it is the night watchman of my hotel which passes and takes to me until Venaco.
Finally. I arrive in times, I have the 14th bed available on the 16 (refuge was increased this year) and I reserve in the tread the menu of the evening… At this time one evening particular starts: discovered Turkish john, first cold shower, first meetings, small first in refuge,… I will meet this evening there, the Family Andre (which I had just crossed during the day), two Belgians (father and wire) of Rixensart, idiots like the moon; a group of French hikers which randonnait in the other direction and which had met on the course… 
Second stage, second day of adventure! The night was short and difficult, I am not accustomed to any more sleeping out of bag of bed and an imbecile lit the light for all the dormitory towards five hour of the mat'! The time of all remballer, to admire to raise it day since the balcony of the refuge and to buy a bread with the guard not to know the same mishap that yesterday and I left through a superb forest pines in soft descent towards the refuge Petra Piana, that I will reach after four good hours of functioning and an hour of glands in the splendid cascades of Manganellu, after having passed the link and the sheep-fold of Tolla. The occasion to meet of old Gantese and very a sympathetic nerve couples Namurois young people at the edge of water. The GR. is attended by very many Belgians who all are not as idiots as those met yesterday. A first part of rather easy stage which will leave room to a new very painful rise (900m), cut by a pause meal with the sheep-folds of Ghjalgu, and a new revelation on the level of the preparation: all my hardware is not adapted. The poncho that I carried to protect myself from the rain is not used for nothing! The rain started to fall whereas I approached Petra Piana and last half an hour was done under a small rain worrying and slipping. The too small poncho, could not cover me when I carried the bag to back. It is thus to hope that the sky will retain its drops the 10 next days because I got rid of the useless object.
I am to finish arrived at the refuge without breakage and I discover a very sympathetic refuge, fact of several small country cottages and with a unspoilable view on the crossed valley. I find the André family (very sympathetic, they kept me a place) and the Belgians idiots. As the day before, I am caught Twix and a Coke with the supply, that will become a small rite until the end of the course. I order the menu and spends the time which separates me from the meal to reading the bought book with Zaventem (a collection of interview of Coluche). The meal does not hold the promises of that of the day before. A rather insipid cake follows a dish of paste to the pesto without more taste. The light which offers the day which starts to fall is very good, it is the occasion to make some photographs before going to sleep. The day of tomorrow again promises a beautiful stage, it will be acted to be as form!
Today, alarm clock and started fast. Manganu is not a refuge attended by the only trekkeurs of the GR20, but also a shelter for the hunters, the sinners and the hikers of any hair. To ensure me a place, I thus choose not to delay. Upon the departure a meeting sympathetic nerve: a salamander. Here thus the first unusual animal of my tour, which opens the way on a first painful rise, which gives access to me a remarkable point of view. Pauses, photo, bars cereal and it set out again… but not for a long time. I pay now the lapse of memory of the water bottle in the car! Without going into the details, my digestive system indicates to me that the water drunk in the river before day before was unsuitable with consumption. No the regrets, I could not make differently. Fortunately I am not reached too much and I carry on my road within a remarkable framework: a succession of lakes of mountain (of which Lakes Rinosu, Melu and Capitellu), peaceful but surrounded by a mysterious environment because of the many tales and legends which are referred to it…
panorama, at the place even where the photograph was taken which makes the cover of the topoguide. After having eaten one or the other bars cereals, the descent is announced difficult because they are large blocks of rocks which should be descended and a fall can have really dramatic consequences. My knees make me strong evil for the first time, it is thus with relief that we arrive in bottom on the pozzines which border a small cascade. The river which runs will carry out us in a small hour to the refuge of Manganu but the rain who made his appearance does not make the bathe very attractive. Doubly damage because the river which runs very close to the refuge is very pretty but especially, the medical ones are absolutely pushing back! The greeting is not bad but it is non-existent, I nevertheless order the meal (sauce haricot beans) in spite of my intestinal problems which are not arranged at all (without more precise details). The refuge of Manganu will thus remain for the greeting, the meal and the conditions (drache with the Belgian) like less sympathetic nerve the more so as the network will prevent to me from sending my ms of the day. The frequentation of the refuge is not exceptional either,… highly tomorrow!
The stage of the day will lead me to Castellu di Verghju. Stage O how much waited bus after a stage long in kilometers, but accessible in terms from made uneven and difficulty, I should find a hot shower, a bed, current, a true meal and can be what to even make the detergent. The stage suggested proposes to me to pass by the Lake Ninu, where I passed a few years ago. I thus leave only early and good mood, by greeting the André family last once bus them do not continue the GR. but fork towards Corte. After a few hundred meters of functioning hardly, the landscape opens and an immense plate appears. Cows and horses feed there in all peace, they must be among happiest of the world. A small rise leads to the sheep-folds of Vaccaghja and a true path until the end of the stage offers to me, while passing by the Lake Ninu, which I reach by bottom. I am living a great moment in my life and I feel it extremely. I like this excursion enormously and the fact of arriving at the accesses of this lake, which evokes for me memories not obvious to manage, gives me a feeling of force even more extremely. The lake did not change, always also beautiful and calms. A cow takes its bath and a foal takes care his/her mother, this lake is a true enchantment, I will return there certainly still a day. The excursion continues and passes with the collar San Petru and its trees laid down by the wind then the splendid forest of Valdu Niellu, which shelters some curious mushroom species. At the end of this very pleasant stage, I arrive (accompanied by wild pigs) at the ski resort, converted into lodging during the summer, of Verghju where I find all of which I dreamed in term of comfort (it is not either one four star but a hot shower that changes the life). Nap, idlenesses and detergent lead me to the delicious evening meal (raviolis to the brocciu and sauce meat). After the meal, great class: foot on TV! Lyon plays against Real and it will be the occasion for me to make knowledge with the server of the bar, fan of foot and Sporting, who obviously does not support French of Lyon but their adversaries. A sympathetic meeting (moreover) thus in spite of a Lyons victory. The night which advertisement should be very good in a true bed, before a stage buffer which must lead me to the gates of the circus of loneliness…
