“Aah, Corsica! I discovered it there is more than fifteen years, and not anyhow! After a crossing from the continent, we were with about fifteen miles of Calvi. The sun had just risen. A ground breeze had forwarded to us an indescribable perfume, that of the maquis! Breathing with full lung, we did not need more our travelling compass… Then it was the greeting by four dolphins: they left us only two hours later. Magic! You guessed it: we were on one to veil, we are it still today - and always in Corsica! ”.
With the passing of years, we discovered a single island there. Inside: its forests of pines, chestnuts and oaks. Its historical pre sites. Its always green maquis, with, in spring, its pallet of colors: myrtle, cane-apple bushes, heather, cistus, lavender. By the sea: that beautiful navigations, especially on the Western coast which offers to us its landscapes with the rocks of a red rusts in Scandola. Its sand ranges (without the hundreds of parasols…), where sometimes some asses come to walk… Stopovers in the ports, villages and cities. For example Cargèse in the north of the gulf of Sagone, my preferred stopover. This pretty and sympathetic nerve village extends on two hills which dominate the sea. Two beautiful churches face, one catholic, the other orthodoxe one; indeed, a Greek colony had settled in the area at the 17th century. A path escarpé and bordered of many, flower Prickly peartrees of Nasturtium and wild fennel, goes down from the village to the port. In one of the restaurants of the port to the family spirit, one can hear the Corsican songs!
We start from Cargèse. The course is put at the south, Bonifacio and the Lavezzis Islands, without forgetting the Sanguinary Islands at the entry of the gulf of Ajaccio and Campomoro in the south of the gulf of Valinco.
Sanguinary Islands: Four especially they do not pass unperceived when the sun lies down. Sometimes red, sometimes black with against day a such Chinese shade. On largest rises a headlight and an old semaphore, as well as the ruins of an old leper-house. Hundreds of seagulls lodge there. At the time of one of my walks on the path which leads to the headlight, I suddenly found myself in the middle of many seagulls flying
aggressively around me by emitting their cry of alarm. Not very reassuring! It is by seeing nests with same the ground and hidden in the low vegetation of the island, that I realized that they were in full nidation. I continued my rise most calmly possible…, gradually the seagulls dispersed! It appears that the “Sanguinary” name comes from one of the many plants of the island, species which, in spring, is red… Another legend speaks about the red blood of the leprous one, and I pass from there! Further, damping with the foot of the tower génoise of Campomoro - one, if not largest of Corsica! One reaches it by borrowing a path, all in the shade of the olive-trees. We are accompanied by Anto, an imaginary guide, which explains us by means of panels, are placed at the length of the course, history, traditions and legends of the area. A visit of the tower - restored, imposes itself. Inside, initially an imposing, round room of course, with its very narrow loopholes, windows. All in top, the platform, the “roof”, from where one has a unspoilable view on all the gulf of Valinco, and in the west on the littoral; initially a plate of low plants, green and harmonious decoration, almost a grass, which finishes with the eroded rocks on which come to be crushed the waves by heavy weather.
Let us leave Campomoro, if we want to arrive at Bonifacio, there too, if possible at the time of laying down it sun! Indeed, a beautiful spectacle seen since the sea, when the cliffs of liking transfer with the yellow, then orange on a bottom of blue-purple sky with a red point pétant on “I” white, that of the small headlight of Madonetta which is perched on a rock at the entry of a long fjord of one thousand (approximately 1,8 km) At the bottom of the fjord, the port of Bonifacio. The night fell, one would be believed in a stage set! The houses of the port lit on both sides are almost embedded in the rocks which, them disappear with more than 50 meters in height in the black sky. All in top, the Citadel, its fortress and its old city. Surrounded by enormous fortifications, it rests on the rocks which go down vertically in the sea.
Part of the city is hung as in balance at the edge of cliffs - one can put the question: but how that does it hold? A long staircase of approximately 200 steps, makes it possible to reach of the fortress the sea. Named ““L `staircase of King d' Aragon”, it would have been built in only one night! The old city, its very parallel and very narrow lanes, many propping up which collect rainwater, its high houses where the narrow staircases go up of a stage to the other almost to the vertical… I always ask how the inhabitants which have - for example a grand piano - proceeded to move in! Since the road which assembles port to the citadel, a path makes it possible to reach on the top of cliffs. A beautiful walk with a panorama on 360 degrees! Sight on the Mouths of Bonifacio, the headlight and the semaphore of Pertusato, with far Sardinia. In windy weather, the clouds pass quickly and very low while passing very close to the plate of the peninsula…
Finally, a stopover in the Lavezzi Islands, natural reserve in the extreme south of Corsica. They include/understand two principal islands, Cavallo a private island, and Lavezzi. The latter seems a rock mass, a lunar landscape. We wet our anchor inside, a handle with limpid water of a turquoise blue, a true swimming pool! At the bottom of the handle, a white sand range, around us of many fish - it is simply paradisiac! The night, total silence is sometimes stopped by a mysterious growl: the night language of the seagulls of the corner! Between two rocks, the headlight of Lavezzis makes us its winks!
Erica and Patrice Humbert-Droz
Large a thank you with Erica and Patrice for their participation.